These Jigs are designed for grinding bowl hooks on our Wraparound adjustable table, a video will be out soon explaining it use, however for a quick overview of the entire system see here. Blanks to fit in the jig will be on the site soon as well.
So, why are we selling this before everything is ready? Well partly due to the volume of customers requesting it after having seen one of our demos. Also it gives us a chance to gauge demand so we can get a sensible batch size next time we order from our suppliers.
A jig for grinding bevels on flat-tanged blades. This can be used on a variety of grinders but has been tested extensively with our wraparound table.
This is a steel-bodied jig with a replaceable plastic insert, which will flex to firmly grip a wide range of tangs from less than 1- 3.2mm it will grip tapered tangs as well. This is a more durable version of our wooden-bodied jig and has been tested in a production environment for the last 12 months.
The plastic insert is not resistant to heat so care must be taken not to overheat the blade it is gripping. In practice, if a blade has been heat treated then as long as you keep it below tempering temperatures (which you would be aiming to do) it is unlikely enough heat will be transferred down the tang of the blade to damage the plastic.
Always grind with a finger against the tang of the blade, if it is too hot to be comfortable cool the blade in water before continuing, this is most likely to be an issue if roughing bevels quickly on a blade.
There is an option to buy this jig with a spare plastic insert, however in the year we have been testing these doing production grinds we have yet to melt one so whilst it is an option it shouldn’t be necessary.
Instruction sheet provided.
A very simple product, however high levels of accuracy when heat treating are possible when used in a solid fuel forge and paired with a thermocouple and reader. The box section is closed at one end so blades are protected from the flame, reducing scaling. The box is constructed from fairly heavy section steel – it will scale heavily in use and eventually burn through ( better this, than your blades!) but should last a long time. Be careful though – it is possible to burn the bottom out if you are trying to rush the intial heat- it is important to build up a large mound of charcoal, or coke and allow the fire to burn all around the box, in the case of charcoal it can help to use larger size pieces than you would for forging to allow the fire to spread easily.